Sé Velha (Old Cathedral)

Category: Monument|Place of Worship|World Heritage Site

As soon as the bishopric was transferred from Conímbriga to Æminium, a temple was built. However, the only physical evidence attesting to the existence of such a building dates from 1117—the date inscribed on the church's consecration stone.

The current building dates from the second half of the 12th century and was designed by the French master Roberto, following the second phase of the Coimbra Romanesque style. The exterior is robust and symmetrical, with few openings and battlements, and a portal decorated with clear Islamic influences. Also on the exterior, it is worth mentioning the “Porta Especiosa” (Special Door), by Master João de Ruão, with elegant Renaissance decoration.

Inside, special mention should be made of the altarpiece in the chancel, in flamboyant Gothic style, executed by the Flemish sculptors Olivier de Gand and Jean d'Ypres. The altarpiece of the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, completed with an elegant Mannerist-style dome, dates from 1566 and was created by João de Ruão.

Also worth mentioning is the cloister, begun in 1218, the first Gothic experiment in Portugal.

In a house near the Cathedral, we can see a tile panel that recalls that “the troubadour of freedom José Afonso (Zeca) lived here,” a musician, notable performer of Coimbra songs, and probably the best-known protest singer of the 20th century in Portugal.

In academic celebrations and traditions, the Old Cathedral is a symbol of one of the most important moments in the life of any student in Coimbra. It is on the steps of this church that the emblematic monumental serenade is held every year, marking the beginning of the Queima das Fitas (Burning of the Ribbons). On that night, as the clock strikes midnight, the students, dressed in their finery, line up in silent chorus to listen to the Fado. For some, the first time they dress in black marks the beginning of a long journey; for others, it is time to say goodbye and take with them all the experiences and lessons that the city has given them.